Brassicas (especially Brassica rapa) are a crop that are probably impossible for the average home gardener to grow to seed succefully in a way that keeps the seed strong for the long haul.  Traditionally areas of Europe had their own wild populations of widely varying Kale, or cabbages and each area had only one variable cultivar. Sometimes they were more like kale, sometimes more like cabbage, etc. 

Each year the seed would be saved from the best ones but they remained widely variable and genetically strong. All parts of the plants would have been eaten, the leaves and stems and flower heads. Out of the genetic variability so many amazing cabbages and cauliflowers and broccolis and kales have been bred and selected over the last few hundred years but to keep these lines strong and the same the process is very difficult.

Koanga Institute is running an appeal to gain the support we need on an annual basis to keep enough brassica lines alive for the long haul for our northern conditions. (Click here for the details). The only Northland Heirloom brassica in the rapa species we have in our collection is Dalmation cabbage and that will probably be the easiest and the most nutritious one to keep alive if you’re keen to grow your own seed

Seed Saving Information

Brassicas are insect pollinated and cross within species only so if you want to try growing your own seed you must plant a minimum of 300 plants, rogue out the100 least true to type, and save the seed from the rest. Seed to Seed says you must have 1 mile between flowering cultivars of the same species but I’ve found the distance can be far less depending on hills and valleys and what is in between.

Cultivation

There is quite an art to growing great brassicas. Here are some tips from us:

Sow brassicas during the months of January, February, March (April/May in warm areas) and then August and September. This avoids loads of pest problems (like white butterflies) trying to grow vegetables in a warm climate they are unsuited to. Colder areas plant in Sept, Oct, Nov, Dec, Jan, and Feb. If you have a white butterfly problem I suggest you put a Cloche hoops over the bed and cover with microclima cloth (available in our shop) until its too cold for butterflies.

Sow a wide range of varieties so they ripen over a long period, 3-5 months for most cabbage cauli and broccoli. Collards and kale will extend that season, as will sprouting broccoli, as well filling in gaps during that time.

Sow small amounts of seed in rows across your 3cm deep trays, and prick out as soon as they have second pair of leaves at 5cm centres into 7cm deep trays.

As soon as the leaves are touching they can be transplanted into the garden.

The garden soil they are being planted into must be free draining as they are a winter / early spring crop and will be adversely affected by water logged roots.

If you don’t have garden beds with high nutrient levels the plants will need to be liquid fed before and after full moon with comfrey, fish, liquid cow manure etc.

Brassicas love lime as well as lots of nutrients. We always compost and dolomite our brassica beds before planting, and then liquid feed with cow manure tea.

CABBAGE (Brassica oleracea)

Dalmatian NZ

Winningstadt OS         

A stunning looking, tall pointy pale green cabbage, mild, good to eat and extremely ornamental. Excellent keepers first grown around 1860’s.

Savoy OS

A large crinkly leafed, round headed, cabbage, excellent flavour and colour, dark green with lighter green inside. This is great cabbage for making sauerkraut (check out the books "Wild Fermenation" or "Nourishing Traditions" available from Koanga Gardens).

Jersey Giant OS

This is the original walking stick cabbage from the Jersey in the Channel Islands. They grow up tall (2-3m) and can be picked a leaf at a time for soups and stews or to feed stock, and then the stalks can be used, to craft beautiful walking sticks. Along with Dalmatian cabbage and kale this is the sort of vegetable that used to grow in the old Scottish crofters ‘kaileyards’ i.e. gardens were actually called ‘kailyards’ Instructions for growing and making sticks included in packets.

CHINESE GREENS

Chi Hi Li EC (Brassica rapa)

This is a traditional Chinese type cabbage. A type of Bok Choy. One of the few open pollinated hearting Chinese cabbages left. This one is a tall one with an elongated heart. Excellent flavour and texture. Will not heart up in the heat over summer. Plant in autumn in the North, or early spring.

KALE (Brassica oleracea)

Kale is a fantastic winter vegetable - packed full of flavour and nutrients, it just sits and waits to be picked a leaf at a time as needed. It is also a great spring vegetable. You can use young leaves raw in salads. Larger leaves I steam (after removing the midribs) and add a little lemon juice. A special kale dish in our kitchen is made by layering steamed kale with hard-boiled eggs (adding a little salt and lemon juice), and topping with grated cheese.

Borecole NZ

When we germinated the seed a couple of years ago the seed took a long time to germinate because it was so old, and it almost died in the seed bank. We really only just made it with this seed. It has blue/grey/ green, round frilly edged leaves and crops very well, outstanding full flavour. Super ornamental!

Lettuce Mustard NZ (Brassica juncea)   

A vegetable from the old gardens. Can be eaten raw when young or is great in boil ups and casseroles. Leaves are a light green colour with frilly edges, they look stunning! With a mustard flavour. A fast growing green. Self sows easily once established. Excellent in salad mixes when young, in soups and casseroles when older.

Garden Cress NZ  (Lepidium sativum)            

This cress is worth growing for the seed heads alone! They are stunning. The plant itself is a great addition to the winter salads or even steamed winter greens; especially if you are not in an area where watercress grows freely. Delicious and highly nutritious!

Watercress(Rorripa Nasturtium)

The traditional watercress of our clean waterway. One of the most nourishing greens during winter raw or cooked. Watercress and potato soup is an old favourite around here.

Upland Cress (Barbarea verna)
Similar to Watercress but tolerates drier conditions so is easier to grow. Forms a rosette of dark green leaves. Leaves are good in salads and can be steamed as a vegetable. Self seeds readily. Crops over long period.

Ruruhau (Mustard Cabbage) NZ (Brassica rapa)   

A fast growing mustard-flavoured green Spring/Autumn. Old Dalmatian vegetable of the North. This is a very easy to grow green, that self seeds readily and is thought of by many as a very coarse vegetable. It is actually sought after for the mustard flavour imparted to casseroles boil ups and stews, it makes a great addition to a winter salad if the leaves are picked when small.

TURNIP ( Brassica rapa)

Golden Ball OS     

Golden turnips add another dimension to a salad. Good cooked , raw, and especially in lactic pickles. Excellent steamed and served with a little balsamic vinegar, toasted sesame oil and a little coriander!

SWEDE (Brassica napus)

Lawes American Purple Top NZ

A NZ Heirloom from the South Island. Excellent quality Swede, grows well for us up here as long as we get it in by early Feb. Colder areas will need to plant earlier.

RADISH
Aomaru Koshin
Unusual round Japanese Radish with green skin and pink and white centre. Can be used raw and added to salads or cooked.